If the Pigato becomes Heretic. (La Stampa, by Paolo Massobrio)
They called “Eretico” this white wine, which in fact has the orange color of Valleggia apricots. The reason is obvious: in the doc tasting commissions it is rejected or judged "revisable", for which Eretico Giallo Colline Savonesi Valleponci is on the label. But Giorgio Guidotti, with Daniela and Paola, only knows how to do wine in this way. And thank goodness: << We work, prune and weed by hand >>. He does not want to tame his wine, just as are not tamed the wild boars we saw in the family on the edge of his farm, which is a fantastic destination, just four kilometers from the sea of Finale Ligure. << An extraordinary valley - he says on his website - which has remained almost intact over the centuries. Crossed by the ancient Via Iulia Augusta with its five Roman bridges and dominated by the imposing Rocca di Corno >>. You reach it along a rough road, but when you finally arrive in Valleponci, you are sure it was worth it. A phrase dear to him by Gino Veronelli reminds us that “Wine is the poetry of the Earth”. And tasting this white / orange, vinified on the skins without added yeasts, you realize it. Feel the broom, the sage, the Mediterranean scrub. In the mouth it descends dry, with a marked mineral note and then the bitter and savory finish, which is like that glimpse of the valley overlooking the sea. Fantastic, even more so with the kitchen (in the outdoor area in summer or in the warmth of the room with the fireplace lit in winter): panissa sautéed with red onion, fine-textured borage ravioli, testaroli with pesto, rabbit "Ligurian heretic” with sautéed fennel, octopus cooked with Granaccia served on potato puree. Yes, Granaccia is the other wine, a red, which makes up its annual production of 15,000 bottles. The brilliant ruby with garnet reflections stands out; the balsamic note of eucalyptus and thyme envelops you on the nose, then blueberries and licorice in the background. In the mouth you feel it rightly tannic, but overall balanced. It's true. Go and find him: this is to all intents and purposes a "mad angel" of Veronellian memory,
